In part 1 of the exercise bike guide we covered the origins of the exercise bike and the manual version.
In this article we take a closer look at computer-controlled exercise bikes.
These are the exercise bikes with an (electro) magnetic brake. For private buyers, they're by far the best-selling type.
Compare the computer-controlled bikes with the manual ones and you'll notice a price difference straight away. On some models you're talking about several times the price. That depends on various factors, so let's run through them all.
The differences between a manual and a computer-controlled exercise bike
Computer-controlled exercise bikes have:
- A constant need for power (unless specifically stated otherwise).
- Programmes that change the resistance automatically.
- More resistance levels.
- A lower entry resistance.
- These days, an available Bluetooth connection.
- User profiles
When should I choose a computer-controlled exercise bike?
The main question to ask yourself is: am I going to use the training programmes?
The biggest jump in price sits in your computer console. Are you planning to choose a programme that adjusts the resistance for you automatically? If the answer is yes, a computer-controlled exercise bike is the better choice. The range of prices within this category is very broad, though. So how do you work out which exercise bike suits you?
Within the console itself there's a further price difference in what you can do with it. Perhaps you'd like programmes on your exercise bike, but you're happy for them to be limited? Or would you rather be able to build your own sessions, take a fitness test, or even ride in a virtual world such as Ride Social or Zwift? The console and its capabilities account for a large share of your total price. Ask yourself what you're looking for, and whether you're actually going to use it.
Second, you need to look at how you'll use the exercise bike, which really comes back to your goal. If you want to do high-intensity training, or ride for 90 minutes three times a week, it's important to look at your resistance levels, the flywheel and the frame.
There's a big difference between 8 and 24 resistance levels. With 24 levels the step up in resistance is far smaller, which makes moving to a higher level easier. It gives you more variety in your training. It's also very useful for increasing the load in small steps during rehabilitation.
Exercise bike flywheels
There's a great deal of discussion around the weight of your flywheel. There's a misconception that a flywheel always has to be as heavy as possible for an exercise bike to be any good. We covered that in a previous article, which you can read here. For exercise bikes specifically, you're often looking at a weight somewhere between 6 and 12 kg. Even if we assume for a moment that the weight is the most important thing, you can still ask yourself whether you need a flywheel that heavy. Someone who only wants to turn the legs over, or who has to ride at a low cadence for rehabilitation, doesn't need a heavy flywheel. Push your cadence right up, though, and a flywheel with more mass can come in useful. Think of spin bikes: they often have a very heavy flywheel because of the training they're built for.
Exactly the same can be said of the frame. What's the aim of your training? How often are you going to use your exercise bike?
In our next article we take a closer look at ergometers, otherwise known as exercise bikes with induction resistance.
Any questions? Leave a comment below or email us at sales@nrgfitness.nl
